An Epic and Funny Costa Rica Adventure

A cool breeze swept through my hair as we motored over calm seas in the tiny boat. We were headed to the northern most point of Corcovado National Park, Costa Rica’s largest and most remote National Park. Most people who visit the park come in from the southern end after taking a 24 hour bus ride down from San Jose or a short flight in to tiny landing strip. It is virtually unheard of for people to hike in from the north, as we were about to do, as it’s a grueling 15 mile walk, through jungle, black sandy beaches, and three shark and crocodile infested river crossings.

While very experienced in the backcountry and knowledgeable about wildlife and foreign travel, I was still apprehensive about this journey. Perhaps if we had prepared for such an experience I would not have been, however, we had planned to do no backpacking or wilderness travel on this trip at all, it was only on a whim that my friends said ‘hey, lets just go for it, we can make it,’ and so we did. With no tent, no stove and even no food for that matter, save a couple of single serving size bags of potato chips, we stood alone and ready to step into the unknown. I’m not sure what we were thinking at the time, I guess that’s typical of someone in their early twenties after all. We had one goal in mind, to make it to the ranger station, sirrena, at the center of the park by 6 pm because that’s when they have dinner available for the researchers who work there and for people who come to stay there for a wilderness experience like us.

The jungle was thick and dark, the sounds of squacking birds and howling monkeys echoed around us as we bushwhacked our way through the first mile. The canopy kept the blazing sun off of us for the time being and we were mesmerized by the thick foliage and biodiversity that seemed to encapsulate us as we went. Gazing down the cliffside at the edge of the forest we would need to descend to gain the black sandy beach that would make up most of our trek we saw hundreds of vultures. They flew from the beach as we approached, a couple of them were king vultures, the largest and most stunning of the breed standing at over 2 feet tall.

At this point in the journey our spirits were light and jovial. There were no signs of human beings for miles around, no boats out in the open sea, no planes overhead, no footprints in the sand, not even garbage washed up on the shore. It was a paradise for those unafraid to venture out there as we were yet it also called for caution as there was no one who knew where we were, no way to call for help and nothing we could do if someone were to become injured or sick. As far as the eye could see was black sand, thick jungle to the left and ocean to the right. As the miles pressed on, the heat began to bear down upon us. We rationed out our water until it literally became too hot to drink any more. Our meager potato chips had gone long ago and although coconuts could be found, the effort needed to open and eat them was too much for us at the time. Blisters swelled on my feet, misery was setting in.

It was impossible to tell if sharks or crocodiles lurked in the depths of the first river crossing as it was wide and deep. The river crossings are dangerous, many have died before, we were told, take extreme caution we were warned. Standing on the shore, discussing, scheming and basically just wasting time we finally realized that we had no other alternative but to cross. Lifting our packs above our heads and linking our selves together, we carefully waded across the water. In the end, the crossing was uneventful, nothing so much as stirred at us except perhaps a small fish or two. The cool and refreshing water was welcoming in the end. The drudgery continued on the other side, the sand grew hotter, our conversation virtually ceased as we continued our mission of getting there by 6 pm, the thought of food and water driving out every step.

As the tide pulled out the second and third river crossings were no more than ankle deep and no worry at all. A loud noise whirled over head as two helicopters flew past and landed in a clearing off in the distance. It was a strange sight after seeing no signs of man for so long. It was just about 6 when we saw a clearing off to the right and a tiny ranger station, our destination, just 100 yards inland. There were maybe 7 helicopters there as well and loads of people. Drenched in sweat, limping in pain due to horrendous blisters, weak and weary we headed in and straight for the dinner table. After drinking 3 pitchers of tang with that meal, one of the best meals of my life, I inquired about the helicopters which had immediately taken off when we approached. The scientists and research students who were so graciously sharing their food with us informed us that the helicopters belonged to none other than Hollywood.

Hollywood? A major motion picture was being filmed, the movie Congo. They’d be back tomorrow. What? Our remote wilderness experience out in the jungles of the rainforest in Costa Rica had turned into a spectacle! Gruff and in broken English, the ranger then informed us that the fees to stay in the park had gone up from $1.50 per day to $15 per day just that week. We would have to pay up or hike out and he didn’t take visa. Pooling our cash together allowed us 2 nights in the dust covered shed they called a dorm but no funds for food.

The roaring blades of helicopters cut through the sky erasing the tranquil sounds of the forest the next morning. Crew and cast disembarked from the choppers and prepared for their day. Upon seeing us one of the directors came over to chat. He truly couldn’t understand why anyone would want to come out to this remote place in the middle of no where to stay under such conditions. Taking pity on us he gave us some money, enough to afford breakfast and dinner for the days we would remain there, for lunches we cracked coconuts by the sea. The time was short but the friendships we made with the researchers at the station and the crazy Hollywood crew would not be forgotten, nor would the monkeys, the frogs and crabs, the large snakes and the thick jungle vines we swung from just like Tarzan.

It was cool and dark at 4 am when we departed Sirrena, hiking south this time. As the sun began to rise that day, two tapirs, rare and unique mammals came crashing out of the forest and tumbling into the sea. We watched them swim and frolic in the waves and felt a connection to the forest, the land and the sea all at once. The sun began to beat down and the hike out was long yet peaceful. At the end of the journey we were greeted with a cold berry smoothie from the kind caretaker of the Corcovado tent camp, our final destination in the park. Clean rooms with ceiling fans, hammocks on the beach, and excellent food, I could have stayed there forever, especially since they did take visa.

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